3 country restaurants where to eat (well)

Octave

Marinated meager, corinander, peas, ground ivy

A lunch in an orchard, one hour from Paris, this is the proposal of the restaurant at the Primard estate. Beneath the apple trees stand les tables d’Octave, the new bistro address of chef Romain Meder. The former three-star chef at the Plaza Athénée has found a haven here that suits him perfectly, after the bustle of Avenue Montaigne. A champion of plants, he offers irreproachable products and a cuisine without fuss, fair and controlled, in cooking as well as in combinations and seasonings. Here, a wood-fired lobster and peas.

Castle life with Catherine Deneuve

There, cherries with fennel and tonka bean. The vegetables come from the garden of Gérard who was, for twenty years, the gardener of the actress Catherine Deneuve, the famous and former owner. Moreover, after lunch, crossing the park, we pass in front of the famous roses of Mademoiselle Deneuve.

The sequel after the ad

Primard estate, Guainville. Lunch formula 38€. Info. : 02-36-58-10-07 and [email protected]

The Perch

After Adrien Cachot and Céline Pham, it’s chef Manon Fleury’s turn to occupy the Perchoir Ménilmontant restaurant for two months. Just below the famous rooftop, the stars of young gastronomy take turns in residence in this restaurant perched on the 6th floor, and bathed in pretty light at the unique evening service.

Food: the new snobberies of the summer

Le Perchoir restaurant by Manon Fleury
Le Perchoir restaurant by Manon Fleury

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Mismatched crockery, found by the chef or shaped by the ceramist Marion Graux; concrete walls, softened by the floral design of wallpaper; white tablecloths and candlesticks… The new setting of the 30-year-old, formerly of Mermoz, is the scene of committed cuisine. Surrounded by a 100% female brigade, she offers daring cuisine based on vegetables and cereals from her favorite producers. We are not about to forget this small spelled and creamy rice, peas and sorrel, this praline of pumpkin seeds and nasturtium, this addictive brioche and the subtle scent of sweet clover on the first cherries.

dessert yuzu
dessert yuzu

Le Perchoir Ménilmontant, 14 rue Crespin-du-Gast, Paris-11th. 7-step menu at €95. Info. : www.leperchoir.frHow about a family trip to the country before summer?

Fabula

At nightfall, when the French garden of the Carnavalet Museum in Paris lights up thanks to the lovely magnifying glasses elegantly arranged on the tables, it’s like being in a fairy tale. And the good news is that the content of the plate is to match. This spring (and until mid-October), chef Thibaut Spiwack is in charge. A candidate for the last season of “Top Chef”, the man has already received a green Michelin star for his restaurant Anona – the one that rewards the ethical and responsible dimension of the table. True to his commitment, he offers a cuisine that still gives pride of place to local products, while revisiting them audaciously. Ile-de-France artichokes are delicately stuffed with cherries, lean ceviche is presented on a sweet peach purée and ricotta gnocchi are accompanied by surprising eggplant skin crackers. Proof that we can achieve both the sublime… and zero waste.

Fabula, the ephemeral restaurant of the Carnavalet Museum, 38, rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Paris-3rd. Around €25 per dish. Info. : carnavalet.paris.fr/restaurant-fabulaBy the sea (or not far), here are 3 hotels that make you want to get some fresh air

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